How to make glass dome earrings

how to make glass dome earrings

How To Make An Easy Glass Dome Necklace

Take a small bit of the breadboard wire and using a wire stripper remove the metal part inside the wire. This serves as the reinforcement for the earrings and connects the hook to the earrings. Diagram 2: This image shows the wrapping of the wire to form a loop on one end and the other end is folded to match the stain glass shape to be soldered. Jul 20, †Ј Turn your glass cabochon on itТs top so the back of the glass side is facing up. Open your glaze and slowly rotate the bottle upside down allowing the air to escape away from the spout. The amount of glaze you will apply will depend on the size of glass cabochon you are using.

The technique of using glass domes over photos is an easy, how to make glass dome earrings, and affordable way to bring a high-end look to making jewelry. This project is for beginners of all ages. STEP 1: Select your image. I like to use my glass dome how to install a junction box a guide by sliding it over my artwork.

Nunn Design Glue is a silicon-based glue versus a water-based glue. This helps prevent the image from how to make glass dome earrings moisture and what time does the maroon 5 concert start running the inks. STEP 3: Press your glass dome to your artwork by squeezing the two between your thumb and forefinger.

Slide the two back and forth pressing any excess glue or air out that can be trapped underneath. STEP 4: Trim your image with a pair of scissors using the edge of the glass dome as your guide.

STEP 5: Paint a thin coat of glue onto the back of the image now attached to the glass and press into your bezel. Repeat for the Small Heart Charm. Thread the Small Textured Cable Chain through the jump rings attaching the pendant and heart charm onto the chain. If you enjoyed reading this post, please subscribe to our blog.

Here are 10 Reasons Why to Subscribe and a place to do so! I think that would depend on the type of printer that you have and the type of quality that you are after. Ideally you would want to have a LaserPrinter or have your images printed what is the mucous membrane at a copy center. I was going to make a pride necklace but the ink dripped when I got glue on it I printed the image off is there any way to prevent this?

I was going to make a pride necklace but the ink dripped when I got glue on it I printed the image off is there any way to prevent this?? What works best are images that are printed with toner, like a Laser Printer or an image printed from from your local copy center.

Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. What is the sum of 4 and 6? Remember me Sign In. Lost your password? To save your purchasing information when shopping retail on the Nunn Design Website, please register as a retail customer. Register as a Retailer.

If you are not yet a registered wholesale customer of Nunn Design, we are glad you have found us! To learn more about our qualifications and how to apply, click here! Gather Supplies 1: Select your image 2.

Paint on thin coat of glue 3. Press glass to artwork 4. Trim around your glass dome 5. Paint glue on back of image.

Press into bezel. Attach jumprings and thread onto chain 7. Older Posts. Newer Posts. January 15, at pm Reply. January 16, at am Reply. Al Stevens says: I was going to make a pride necklace but the ink dripped when I got glue on it I printed the image off is there any way to prevent this? February 17, at am Reply. Al Stevens says: I was going to make a pride necklace but the ink dripped when I got glue on it I printed the image off is there any way to prevent this??

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Mar 21, †Ј How To Make An Easy Glass Dome Necklace 1: Select your image. 2. Paint on thin coat of glue. 3. Press glass to artwork. 4. Trim around your glass dome. 5. Paint glue on back of image. Press into bezel.. 6. Attach jumprings and thread onto chain. 7. Assemble necklace. Select your image. I like. Put the glass on top of the image you want and trace around it. For the 25mm round trays, I use a 1 inch round whole punch Ц Hobby Lobby, works perfect. For the 25mm square trays, I use a 1 inch square hole punch. Cut the image to fit into the tray.

If you are new to using pendant trays, DIY craft kits, photo jewelry pieces, and glass cabochons, this tutorial is for you. Please know that we offer this free tutorial to anyone who wants to read it.

It is our hope that you will use us as your preferred supplier when you buy your items. Whether you are making one necklace or hundreds of necklaces, we would love to earn your business.

Hopefully this tutorial shows just how much we love helping our customers. We also offer fast VIP support to our customers when they have any questions regarding making our items.

The total time it actually takes to make your pieces is less than 30 minutes but with printing and drying times it can seem a little discouraging your first few tries. However, once you have made 2 or 3 pieces you will be amazed at just how fast you have become. I have plenty of customers that make these for a living a pretty good one to that have told me they wish there had been a tutorial like this from the get go. DIY Craft Supplies.

We are going to make our pendant tray with glass cabochon pieces using inkjet prints as it requires one more step than using color laser prints and because we know most people use a inkjet printer it just makes since. We like to use a warm moist paper towel to clean our glass cabochons before we start to use them as the last thing you want is foreign debris on your glass when you get ready to start working with it.

If you happen to be using color laser prints you can skip this step as laser prints are not using actual ink and the toner dries within minutes. If you are using a inkjet printer we suggest you print your images and allow at least hours of drying time before using your prints.

Preferably you will print them the night before you start your project but some of us are not that patient.. Applying your Microglaze. Step 3: Seal your inkjet prints with Microglaze- Please remember if you are using a color laserjet or having them printed you can skip this step. Microglaze is a waxy substance that is going to seal your images from the water and liquid properties contained in any glue or adhesives you use to bond your image to your glass like our Lilly Glaze once applied.

In this tutorial we use a brush to apply the Microglaze but you can just as easily use the tip of your finger if it is clean. A small amount of this goes a very long way so use as little as possible.

Simply use your brush or finger tip that has the smidge of microglaze on it and cover the entire image. Make sure the entire image is covered with a extra thin waxy looking shine to it. You can make sure by holding it up to a light and looking at it from different angles. You should not see any significant wax build up. Now let the Microglaze absorb into the image and dry for another minutes. Once you have done that you then want to buff the image out as smooth and as shiny as possible with your finger tip.

You are essentially trying to get rid of all visual traces of the Microglaze and only leaving the protective layer that has absorbed into the paper so get rid of as much as possible. Again, do not apply to much pressure as you do not want any friction to cause the ink under the Microglaze to smudge.

It would be the equivalent of buffing out the wax on a car or hard wood floor. If you leave to much build up on your image you can make your image so slick it will not adhere to the glass. Once you have buffed the Microglaze off of the image let it now dry for a little while longer to be safe.

If you plan it correctly you can print your images, apply your microglaze, buff them out, and let them dry overnight so you can start finishing your pieces the next day. If your glass peals away after you glue your image you have left to much Microglaze. Applying Lilly Glaze. It will cause unwanted air Bubbles in your glaze that can ruin your project. Open your glaze and slowly rotate the bottle upside down allowing the air to escape away from the spout.

The amount of glaze you will apply will depend on the size of glass cabochon you are using. You want to use enough glaze so that you can cover the entire image once you put your glass cabochon on your image but not so much that you over soak the paper causing it to start curling up like a sponge.

This is why we recommend you having extra glass on your first few attempts as this step is usually the one where you will most likely have the steepest learning curve. Bonding Your Image to your Glass Cabochon. Step 5: Bonding your glass cabochon to your image- Now to the easy part. The glaze will start setting up fairly quickly so after you have centered your image and have your glaze where you feel it has spread pretty evenly, apply slight pressure on the top of the glass so that you see the glaze under the glass flatten out.

Once that is done it is time to leave it alone unless you notice an obvious air pocket under the glass which you want to push out as quickly as possible. Sealing Your Pendant Tray. Step 6: Sealing Your Pendant Tray- While your glass and image are bonding together you want to seal the inside of your tray. The reason we do this is to create a barrier between the tray itself and what will be your finished glass cabochon piece so that if the tray happens to oxidize at all from the water content in the glaze it will not reach the back of your image and create a blue tint to your image.

Simply put a pea size dot of glaze in the middle of your tray and then use your paint brush to spread it thoroughly around the inside of the tray. Be sure to get the inside walls as well. Allow minutes to dry and apply more coats. Now set your trays to the side and let them dry during the next steps. If this occurs it usually means you did not seal the inside of the tray and back of your image as well as you should have with enough dry time. Cut Out Your Image. Our preference is to wait overnight to let the glaze dry completely but we have done pieces much sooner than that.

The best test is to put the tip of your fingernail in the glue that bled out of the edges and if it is to soft let it dry longer. After experience we use a exacto knife to cut out around the image. This step is really all about personal preference as to how you cut it out but this is what we have found is the most consistent.

Take your nail file and start sanding the excess around the edges off. It is very important that you do not sand with the image side up or you will tear the image away from the glass. Be sure to keep the image side down and sand in a downward motion so that the paper is as round as the back of the glass.

See the below image for what you want it to look like when done filing. Seal The Back of Your Image. Step 9: Sealing the back of your image: This is the last step of creating a barrier between your image and glass and the metal of the inside of the bezel setting tray. Put a small dot of your glaze on the back of your image and gently cover the entire back side. Let the coat of glaze dry for minutes and then repeat the process more times. Your goal is to make sure there is no part of the paper touching any part of the metal on the inside of the tray.

Remember you do this to keep your image from taking on a blue tint from the water molecules causing the tray to oxidize. We prefer to use the least corrosive materials by simply sealing your tray and glass. Below is a picture of what the back will look like as you get better at doing this. No secrets here. Make sure the coats of glaze that you put on the back of your images are dry completely. Put another dot of your Lilly Glaze in the tray and spread it around with your brush and then simply pit your piece in your tray and press down firmly so the image and glass cabochon glue in securely.

Exacto Knife Ч Use this for trimming around your images. You can also use hole punches for many shapes and sizes but we prefer using the trimming method with an exacto knife as it allows for more control over your pieces. Nail File Ч This will be used to get rid of excess paper and give your pieces a professional finish. We like to have several different coarses of files on hand. Small Paint Brush Ч To apply glaze to the back of your images and seal your trays.

Bezel Settings Ч Also known as pendant trays, photo trays, or jewelry blanks. In this tutorial we are using 3 different settings. A pendant tray necklace, a cuff bracelet, and a adjustable ring setting. Something that is also very important to note is that crafting glass does not have perfect clarity at all times before you use your image and glaze due to the process used to manufacture them. We pride ourselves in the quality of our glass and have several thousands of customers that buy our glass cabochons to supply their glass needs but is important to note that you will on occasion see a piece that has a scratch or minor blemish that will disappear once your glaze and images are applied.

The reason for this is due to the way light reflects through the glass before you have started working with it.

You can find extra glass by visiting our Glass Cabochons section here or at our Etsy store here. It is specifically formulated to setup fairly quick, dry fast, and not cause your pieces to have those annoying air bubbles that will ruin your work after it has dried. It is very common for customers to try and use products like modge podge, diamond glaze, glossy accents, etc..

In our humble opinion these are great products but they are not designed for glass and images being bonded together. We are all for creative freedom and learning by trial and error but please know this is probably where you need to be the most conservative when learning this DIY craft. Paper- We highly suggest you use a heavy matte cardstock paper that is somewhere in the lb range. The heavier you go the more you have to make sure your printer will feed that paper.

Do not use glossy paper or your Lilly Glaze will not bond your image to your glass. You definitely want your paper to have a smooth finish but not so smooth that there are no pores for the glaze to pull the paper to the glass. The largest reason for heavy matte paper is that the paper will not curl and the glaze will not soak through the paper like you would get if you use a lighter paper.

We always encourage experimentation so try different weights of paper and even different finishes if you would like. You can find paper at many places. Your local copy or office store is the best place or of course you can use Amazon. Printer- This is definitely where you have to make an important decision. However, we know that the average person does not just have a color laser printer as their home printer.

Lets address them real quick if you do not already know: Color Laser Printers- Laser printers are the easiest to use when working with glass cabochons not only because of the clarity of color laser prints but also because they use a process of magnetizing the paper so that the powder inside your toner cartridges adhere to the paper verse using actual ink that you use in a ink jet printer.

This is very convenient and makes the process of attaching an image to glass easier.



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